How to Heat Your Tiny House
Choosing and installing the appropriately sized heater for your tiny house is pretty important. Get it wrong and you’ll a) spend long winters perpetually cold when home, or b) end up wasting power/fuel as you open windows to allow excess heat to escape. In this article, learn how to heat your tiny house while keeping weight, size, and cost in mind.
The key to proper sizing is knowing how many BTUs your space will require to comfortably condition it. British Thermal Units are defined as the amount of energy it takes to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree Fahrenheit. BTUs are a standardized unit of measurement in the heating and cooling industries so once you know your BTU load, you’ll pretty easily be able to compare various options.
You can calculate your BTU load by finding an online calculator, like this one or this one. You’ll need the following pieces of information on hand: insulation R-values in your walls, floor and ceiling height dimensions, and the temperature difference between a cold day and what you want your interior temperature to be.
Once the calculator has given you your BTU designation, look for a heater that can meet those requirements. If you need to choose between an under or oversized heater, choose the larger of the two and make sure it has a thermostat (built in or exterior mounted) so that you can set the temperature in your comfort range.
GRID TIED HEATER OPTIONS

With a mini-split heater, only the white, sleek manifold pictured at top is installed in the house interior. The compressor and other components are installed out of view and outside (compressor most often being placed on trailer tongue).
If you have a reliable, grid-tied electric power source, mini-splits are pretty darn ideal. Small, wall mounted (so they don’t take up valuable floor space), and energy efficient, these sleek units can provide BOTH heating and cooling solutions from the same unit. A small exterior mounted compressor (installed typically on trailer tongue) is required for the mini-split to operate. More and more tiny housers are installing them. Be advised that as temperatures drop below -5F, these units can begin to struggle to generate heat. If you live in an extremely cold climate, make sure you choose a model properly rated for your climate zone.
Another nice option for grid-tied tiny houses are radiant floor mats (which install right below a finished floor). If you’ve ever stepped into a house with radiant floor heating, you’ll know just how magical that feels…it’s like walking into a spa! They take up no wall or valuable floor space in a tiny house, are easy to install, and pretty cost effective. Be sure to choose a model that outputs enough heat. Some of these systems are designed for small bathrooms with the assumption that there is a primary heat source elsewhere. Again, match the BTUs to your needs and you should be in great shape.
Lastly, you can always just use a plug-in heater. Some are safer than others so make sure you buy the one appropriate for your lifestyle (i.e., don’t get a unit with exposed hot coils if you have younger children or pets). Plug-in oil-filled radiant heaters are safe, economical, and depending on the size of your tiny house and its geographic location, may be all that is necessary to heat your whole home. Other options are plug-in baseboards, electric fireplaces, and wall panels.
OFF-GRID HEATERS
Generating heat with electricity is incredibly demanding on an off-grid system so unless you plan on investing $20,000+ into solar (or some other alternative form of power), you’ll need to find either a 1) fuel (wood, pellets) based system, or 2) propane/gas heater. We are 100% off the power grid here at hOMe and have been so for over 3.5 years. We have no regrets at all but will say that finding an appropriate heater for our space was one of the largest challenges we faced in our entire build. Granted, at the time, hOMe was one of the largest tiny houses out there and there weren’t a ton of articles on the topic of heating small spaces out on the web.
Making the decision between going with either wood or propane heat was really tough for us and still, to this day, we sometimes wonder if we made the right one. Here’s the deal…if you go with wood as your only heat source, you’ll be married to your house in the winter. Longer days in town will mean coming back to a cold house and weekend outings will require you to drain all your water lines so you don’t risk coming back to frozen pipes. But propane is expensive (especially since we live on 5 heavily forested acres and have a lifetime of free fuel around us) and honestly not terribly efficient (about 85% for direct vent units). At the same time, we can set our propane heater to whatever temperature we want, lock the door, and go off on a tropical winter vacation without worrying about what condition our house will be in when we come back. Because wall space is so limited in our personal tiny house, we didn’t have room for both wood and propane heaters. In the end, convenience tipped the scale in favor of a propane one. When we’re here all the time we lament that we don’t have wood heat, but when we travel, or go away for the whole day, we’re grateful for the auto function that propane provides.
Wood Options
Sizing a wood fueled fireplace is important not only because you don’t want to waste money on an over-sized one, but because you don’t want to hog up valuable floor space with one that’s larger than necessary. One that’s too small though just won’t quite do the trick, requiring you to bundle up in layers all winter long.
Fortunately, the wood burning stove market has provided some really nice options for us tiny housers. Make sure to incorporate space for indoor wood and kindling storage. Many tiny housers build a raised platform for their wood burning stove, creating space for fuel storage below. If you plan on being mobile, it’s vital that you firmly attach your unit to your floor/subfloor. Further, keep in mind that road restriction measurements are taken at the highest and widest points and that vent stacks, gutters, etc. all count towards that overall measurement. One option is to install removable vents and take them on and off as necessary.
One of principle challenges a tiny houser will face with a wood burning stove is the clearance safety requirement for most units. Standard wood burning stoves need a fairly large safety perimeter to ensure there is no fire risk. Look for an option that has as minimal need for fire safety space around it as possible. Another potential challenge is finding an insurance broker willing to extend coverage when a wood burning stove is installed in a tiny house.
Propane Options
In terms of propane heaters, there are a few, but not a ton of options for tiny houses. We only recommend direct vent units (ones that directly exhaust vapor and fumes to the exterior) in tiny houses. The difference in cost and ease of installation between direct and non-vented units is significant, making the temptation to buy a non-vented option potentially high.
We fell for the non-vented heater bait ourselves, installing a unit in our son’s tree house, and it was terrible. They say they’re safe for habitable spaces but 1) they produce an acrid and unpleasant smell while in operation which made us wonder if we were being poisoned, 2) they require two windows to be left slightly ajar to allow fumes/vapor to escape meaning that a lot of fuel is being burned just to keep the room at temperature, and 3) they produce copious amounts of vapor. Even with windows ajar, significant pools of condensation were building up, and anyone that values a mold-free tiny house will know that excess moisture is a recipe for disaster.
Not sure what options to look for in a direct-vent propane heater? These are must-haves IMHO: thermostat control, non-electric ignition (in case you run out of power), and a BTU unit sized for your needs. You might also want to look for one specifically approved for mobile home use so that a warranty can be applied need be. Once you impose those parameters, you’ll likely find that there aren’t a ton of options available. Fortunately, you don’t need dozens of heaters, you just need one and there should be something that works.
In hOMe, which is 207sq ft + 110sq ft in lofts, we went with the Hampton H27 (max BTU 23,000 with 85% efficiency). We enjoy four distinct seasons in southern Oregon and our winters are often marked by 6-8 weeks of 2′-3′ of snow on the ground (we’re at nearly 4,000′ altitude). Our Hampton outputs tons of heat (even in -10F nights) but because it has a remote-controlled thermostat, it simply turns off when it goes above the programmed temperature.
The Hampton H27 requires very little safety clearance around its perimeter and was literally the only unit that would work in our little heater corner. From the left side wall to the unit it just needs 6” clearance, from back wall to unit 3”, from unit corner to wall 2”, and from unit top to ceiling 24”. No fireproof pan is required underneath the unit. The unit’s dimensions are 24.6”W x 27.1”H x 16.4”D. The weight is pretty significant (200#). The other downside is the cost ($1,600-$1,800). If you have a larger tiny house (24’ or larger), we recommend this heater. This unit can heat a space up to 400-500SF in a temperate climate. If your tiny house is smaller than 24’, it will be be overkill not only in space and heat output, but also cost.
One important point is that some propane heaters require propane tanks to be a minimum size (100 pounds/20 gallons for example). Some larger heaters won’t work with smaller 5 gallon (BBQ sized) tanks because there isn’t enough internal tank pressure to properly ignite the heater. Determine what sized propane tank you’ll install for your needs and make sure that your potential heaters will play nicely with those propane tanks. This is often not specified in the specs so will require that you call the company and speak with someone who actually knows the unit inside and out.

We installed the DV8 in our daughter’s 120 sq ft cabin. It does a fine job of keeping her place toasty warm in the winter.
A smaller direct vent propane heater option (which we installed in our daughter’s 120sq ft cabin with 8′ tall ceilings) is the Home Comfort DV8. It requires no electricity to operate (Piezo ignitor) and vents all vapor and noxious exhaust gasses to the exterior. The DV8 outputs 8,000 BTUs and is designed to heat 200sq ft. It does a sufficient job of keeping her cabin warm, even on those three dog nights. The ignition system is awkward though and it sometimes takes several minutes to actually get the heater going.
The DV8 comes with an internal thermostat and automatically shuts on and off when the temperature gets beyond the designated range (adjusted with a turn dial on the heater itself). Though the sides and bottom of the unit don’t get too hot, the top most certainly does so make sure to keep clearance well above it.
The DV8 Home Comfort weighs 31 pounds and measures 12″w x 5″d x 24″h and costs about $700. Installation is fairly simple: cut hole into the exterior wall using included template, install the direct vent piping, and flash the exterior to protect the interior wall system from water. It took us about two hours to set it all up (and 24 hours to burn off the fumes from the new paint). We keep two 20# propane cylinders outside to fuel her cabin and she uses about 3 gallons per week in the winter to heat her place.
QUESTIONS TO CONSIDER
To sum things up, the principle questions you need to ask yourself when determining how to heat your tiny house
-How many BTUs does my system need to be to keep me warm and happy in the winter?
-Will I have access to grid-tied power?
-How often will I leave my home on cold winter days?
-Do I have access to free or inexpensive sources of wood or fuel?
-Can I meet minimum clearance distances for the unit in my tiny house?
-Will my tiny house have propane delivered to it or do I need to refill tanks myself? And if I need to fill them myself, do I have a trailer or some way to transport a larger 100 pound tank?
We hope this article has shed some light on the considerations that need to be factored into how to heat your tiny house. Feel free to leave comments and questions below, especially if you have direct experience with a unit that’s worked (or hasn’t) in your own tiny house. 🙂
A marine propane fireplace like a Dickensen is under 1K $ and vents and brings in fresh air to burn. No moisture and a nice flame to look at.
Here’s a link to the Dikensen;
https://www.tinyhousesinside.com/products/dickinson-marine-newport-p9000-propane-fireplace-heater?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&variant=32450833542&gclid=CNLy9IXmx9MCFdSFswodeJQFmg
I think you’ll have to copy and paste it…
Also, I was wondering if you couldn’t get more heat and less waste by running the exhaust back and forth a few times with a single wall exhaust tube instead of taking it outside immediately? Or would that interfere with exhaust flow from increased resistance to flow?
Captain Doug, I think the Dickensen is the prettiest heater out there but from everyone we know that has installed one in a tiny house larger than 18′, it has not produced enough heat in a cold climate. They’re one thing in a boat surrounded by water that is above freezing. Another in a house surrounded by freezing air. I wish they worked! It’s the one we would have bought.
The Cubic Mini and Cubic Grizzly are small woodstoves that have a gassifier chamber. That means when installed properly, the wood gasses produced by combustion are also burned- resulting in far more heat than a conventional woodstove and are much smaller than the one shown above. The stove, mounting plate, tools, double-wall flue pipe, deck fitting and rain cap and fire board for the inside are all under $1k total.
Again a link…and the links DO work so you don’t have to copy and paste:
https://cubicminiwoodstoves.com/products/cb-1210-br-cubic-mini-wood-stove
These two options are by far the best wood options out there for tiny houses. I’ve been researching his topic for years now and I haven’t come up with anything better than these. Aside from being extremely efficient and cost effective, they also take up very little space. The only valid complaint that I’ve found is that creosote builds up fast without that second layer of pipe but now that the double pipe is required, there is no real cons to this wonderful stove.
Thanks Tina!
I have experienced a Heier mini-split system in a classroom where I work. Generally it works well. However, this past winter it would not heat once the outside temperature dropped below -5 degrees F. (Rather inconvenient!)
Some of the newer models can operate lower at -15ºF to -22°F…
But yes, it’s a heat pump system and thus the colder it gets the less efficient it becomes. So good to have another heat source if you have to deal very cold temperatures…
If you get a lot of sun in your area, one of the supplemental options is a solar air heater… They can be made DIY for low cost and allows more flexibility in heating options.
A multi-heat source water heating system can also work for hydronic radiant floor heating and you can combine multiple heat sources to provide the energy for very high efficiency…
Thanks for the follow up James D.!
Thanks for giving this feedback Lauri McKean! I’ll incorporate it into the article so that others can make an informed decision.
Gabriella ,
In one of your previous blogs back in 20014 you mentioned, among other criteria, that you were looking for a unit that didn’t require electricity.
I understand that the ignition is on a battery… but are the other features, the fan, the thermostat etc. on a battery too? Or are there manual bypasses for when there is no power, such as setting temperature levels?
These are concerns as I would need it to continue to operate even if power were down.
Thank you for any answers you can provide.
Hi Chip! No, the whole thing is power independent. No fan, thermostat is battery operated…so no need for power hook up 🙂
I don’t see anyone using pellet stoves in tiny houses, is the main reason for this the space requirements? (The ones I’ve seen are all about 2′ x 1.5′ plus clearances. It is a popular way to heat houses here in Wisconsin. It seems like a really efficient way to heat a home since many models have temp controls so you’ll never waste fuel or overheat your space and once filled they’ll run for 24-40 hours assuming you live in a 1500 sq ft house. What are your thoughts?
Pellet stoves have to be rated for the home size to work well. A too big pellet store will go out a lot, that was learned as a child when my family was given as pellet stove for 200sqft in a 1000 soft house. We got a new heater due to the problem of the pellet stove going out all the time.
One of the things I find disappointing in the TH movement is the neglect of advocating the use of regular RV furnaces. The Suburban is direct vent with an outside vent to fuel the combustion. The Atwood Everest is direct vent and a time tested unit. Both need to be installed in cabinets, but we’re custom making the house anyway right? Both are no larger than 12″x12″x21″. Both have internal blower motors (12v) and have the possibility to have vent hoses added to bring the warm air to remote areas of the home. They both have thermostat settings. Of course the best part, is they are already in thousands and thousands of trailers and RV, so parts and service is not so far away and difficult.
Yes, they are propane, but who doesn’t have an electric heater or 2 for back up?
Personally, I’d rather weld up a custom stove from an old propane tank and use that on the really chilly nights to offset the Atwood Everest’s propane consumption..
I think this is a great point Mark. We considered using an RV furnace but decided against it. It’s good to have options!
Just starting to do some preliminary research on building a TH for my disabled daughter. Very early in our research, but has anyone on here used the floor heating mats as your primary heating option and if so, how well did they do in regards to warmth and efficiency? For our situation this option seems the best because we or she can set it and forget it. Propane, wood, and even freestanding electric units will require too much responsibility for my daughter. Any input would be much appreciated.
Hello
Most likely leaning towards a propane heater (would love to do solar, but thats pricey…)
No one has mentioned here what the price of heating the home every winter is? If I went with a propane heater, how much would the propane cost per month of below freezing weather? Can I turn the heater on, then off when its warm, then on again? What experiences have people had with this?
Thanks for pointing out that direct-vent propane heaters are the recommended type for tiny houses. My husband and I are interested in living in a tiny home. Thanks for sharing this info about the different heating options available.
For a remote cabin/tiny house on the Oregon Coast in a forest, the Cubic Mini has been recommended for heat (which is fine with me) and a wood fire boiler for hot water and hot water radiant heat. Some solar is planned for energy use but trying to do heat and hot water with solar only does not seem feasible. Wind is a possibility on the coast. I refuse to use propane and the cost to connect to the grid is more than these other options. I am not young. Suggestions?
Thank you for sharing the information on how to heat your tiny house. It gives me great insight and it helps me a lot. Thanks.
Thanks for pointing out that when planning your tiny house you should determine what sized propane tank you need to install for your needs. My husband and I are thinking about building a tiny house and since it can get really cold here in the winter the heating system is one of my biggest concerns. I think that having the right sized propane tank system installed would really help make sure that we could stay warm and that we wouldn’t run out of heat.
Thanks for sharing this with us, the propane options seem really working for me.
Hey tiny house owner
My name is Willem from Belgium, living on a classic wooden boat of 35 ft, momentarily in Norway.
Live onboard since 2009 and experienced top brand diesel heaters. Not happy with the results I started making modifications and have now gotten a full, odorless, economical working heater.
My goal was to be independent of electricity and have an operatable heater in all weather conditions.
Thought tiny house owners could enjoy such a heater as much as I do at low cost and little upkeep due to the complete combustion.
It is my desire to guide and advise potential owners with where, why and how to install and operate.
If interested you find more information on norskblueflamme.com
Enjoy the day
Willem
A little late but I’ll add my two cents. I live where its cold and the local propane people only want to service 500-gallon tanks and have a large minimum requirement. Many people use small tanks and go to other places for propane. I think they mainly cook with it. You legally can’t drive down the road with a 100-gallon tank in a truck or on a trailer. This is from people who have had propane issues and they tell me this. if you’re into being independent or living remotely propane seems like a pain. Don’t get me wrong propane is great stuff, but 500 gallons at 3 plus dollars a gallon? Geez.
I’ve considered using radiant heat from pex pipes filled with a glycol solution in a closed-loop system. I would power this with excess power from a solar/wind setup using the water heater element as a diversion load. I’ve read that floor heat can heat a small space.
I also think building a small wood stove from fire bricks would be an easier choice. A fresh air inlet and some serious thoughts about ventilation and safety would be needed.
My view is from someone who wouldn’t move their tiny home.
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