En route to Loreto, we stopped in an absolutely adorable, small, and quaint town called Mulege to buy some groceries, get large water jugs and swap out some dollars for pesos. The one-way streets were very narrow. The pace was very relaxed, people were friendly and it had tons of charm. We all immediately felt at home there and soaked up the heat (nearly 90ºF) as we went from place to place running our errands. We spoke with a gringo who owns a place in town and asked for some beach recommendations as we wanted to spend a couple days in the area before continuing on.
We ended up at Playa Los Cocos because of its stunning scenery, aqua-marine water, and its predominately Canadian population of campers (What can we say? We love Canadians!). For 100 Pesos (around $8), we got a beach-front spot with a palapa and it was paradise. The beach sits in a quiet, small cove within Bahia Concepcion and has around 15 palapa/camping spots on it. The beach was only about half full with campers and nearly everyone there was set up for the long haul (6+ months).
The long-term campers have set themselves up in style. Some of them have satellites for TV and internet and one evening we actually noticed someone watching a hockey game from within their trailer (viva Canada!). They have modified their palapas into highly functional camp kitchens with shelves and tables. We became friends with a wonderful couple (he’s Austrian, she’s Dutch) who have been coming to the beach year after year, each time for a little bit longer. Everyone we’ve met so far has been really kind and willing to share their stories and answer all of our questions. It’s nice to feel like this is a welcoming community of travelers that are sharing the Baja experience.
We spent a large part of our time during those two days snorkeling (didn’t dive because we still need to get weights for Terra and the local dive shop literally shut down the day we arrived). Terra is a fish and spent most of her waking hours in the extremely warm water (87°F!). The cove is completely calm and we never saw any waves. The underwater visibility wasn’t super but we did get to see quite an assortment of marine species in our snorkeling excursions around the two points flanking the cove. The highlight was walking out at low tide to the neighboring desolate beach and discovering a perfect carcass of a porcupine fish as well as a dolphin. Seeing Terra literally light up at each new discovery and new species of marine life she encountered while snorkeling was truly wonderful. It felt really hard to leave this place. The very first place we happened to stop at was ideal. The only thing that really pulled us away is that the local dive shop has shut down and there is no way for us to fill our tanks to dive. So, southbound we go in search of compressed air for our scuba tanks!